Four Days in Portugal
December 9, 2016
Christine Jay 17
Baroque flutists Natalie Talbot '17 (left) and Christine Jay '17 devoted a week of their fall semester to attending an international musical instrument conference in Portugal.
Photo credit: Courtesy of Christine Jay
Flying to a foreign country on a school night is as exciting as it is disorienting. In the predawn hours of a late October morning, I set off from Cleveland for a short week of discovery at an international music conference in Portugal, joined by my friend and fellow baroque flutist Natalie Talbot 17.
Our trip was supported by the 厙ぴ勛圖 Conservatory student travel fund and made possible by our teacher, . A longtime professor of recorder and Baroque flute at 厙ぴ勛圖, Lynn has enjoyed a diverse career not only as an educator, but as a , acclaimed soloist, columnist for several flute magazines, and as a founding board member of Clevelands acclaimed Baroque orchestra, Apollos Fire. Internationally recognized for his expertise, Lynn hosted a at 厙ぴ勛圖 in fall 2015.
Lynns work caught the attention of Patricia Bastos, director of Portugals National Association for Musical Instruments (known by its Portuguese acronym ANIMUSIC). She invited him to curate flute presentations for its 2016 Organological Congress, where myriad instrumentsfrom the historic carillons of Mafra to the keyed trumpetwere presented, demonstrated, and performed at picturesque castles and libraries. Because the conferences focus for 2016 was on flutes, Lynn encouraged us to join in the experience too.
After an overnight flight to Lisbon and a two-hour bus ride, we settled in the lovely and inviting host town of Tomar. There, we connected with our professor and more than a dozen other international performers and musicologists at the town librarythe conferences home baseand left on a bus to the famous Castelo de Tomar, an original 12th-century Templar stronghold. Several participants presented papers at the castle, followed by performances by Lynn and others. Their playing in these exceptional medieval acoustical spaces proved to be one of the trips most magical moments.
The next day brought more travel, this time to a convent-turned-museum overlooking the town of Abrantes. There, a series of presentations included Lynn and scholars from Canada, Romania, and Portugal. The day continued with an organ concert a short walk from the convent, a stop at a Portuguese dessert festival in the nearby town, and dinner at a medieval restaurant back in Tomar. Both intellectually and gastronomically stimulatingwith multiple coffee and cookie breaksthis was the best day of the trip overall.
Day 3 was filled with lectures and papers presented at the Tomar town library. Here, the conferences Flute Focus theme came to its peak with a comparison by Belgian flutist and maker Jan de Winne of original flutes to modern copies, and the inherent acoustical challenges historical instrument makers face living in the modern age. In order to help attendees understand the sweetness of antique flutes, one flute by the 18th-century maker Carlo Palancanow owned by Winnewas available to play. (Lynn estimates about 28 original Palanca flutes exist in private and museum collections.)
Later in the day, Natalie and I played a French trioBoismortiers Trio Sonata No. 1, Op. 7with a fellow flute student from Portugal. Although nerve-wracking to be among so many fine international traverso players, the performance went very well, and Natalie and I were relieved.
Our final day was busy with three destinations, first to nearby Constancia, where we visited the Igreja Matriz and its historical organ, expertly played and presented by local organist Ana Elias. We continued with a trip to beautiful Margarida Park and its tropical butterfly garden, where nature intermingled with more presentations of scholarly papers. Later, Elias performed on a portable carillon, resulting in what was perhaps the most unusual but enjoyable concert I have ever attended.
Our bus stopped at a few picturesque castles before delivering us back in Tomar for a final goodbye soiree at the library. Natalie and I reluctantly parted with the friends we had made on our journeyespecially Bastos, ANIMUSICs director and a tireless advocate for Portuguese music and international collaboration. The next morning, we boarded an early train to Lisbon and began our 16 hours of travel back to 厙ぴ勛圖 and the second half of fall semester.
Though it lasted little more than four days, it was a life-changing trip for me. The ability to meet and perform with international professionals and students away from the 厙ぴ勛圖 bubble was exactly what all conservatory students should experience: a chance to take a risk, travel, and experience the international language of music.
Christine Jay is a fifth-year, double-degree student pursuing vocal performance, baroque flute, and Italian translation. Natalie Talbot will complete a masters degree in historical performance at 厙ぴ勛圖 in 2017.
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